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Paris Fashion Week


Nostalgia Woven with Air
For SS26, Chloé under Chemena Kamali leans into its heritage in the most light-footed way, letting prints, drape, and ease carry the brand's romantic DNA forward without letting it feel stuck in the past. Flowers, dropped hems, pastel tones—all markers of classic Chloé -return, but the show's energy is one of refinement: of looking back not to replicate but to reinterpret. The result is a collection that breathes, moves, and flutters more than it demands. Kamali's work here b
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Nov 23, 20253 min read


Big Sisterhood & Frayed Defiance
For their Spring/Summer 2026 collection, Swiss duo Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient lean into a "big sister" persona—one that blends toughness and care, boundary pushing and nurture. Marking a decade of their brand, they reflect on not just how you dress to be seen, but how you dress to endure, to fail, to rise, and to support others doing the same. The collection plays off contradictions: exposure and coverage, tenderness and structure. The mood feels both rebellion and refu
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Nov 23, 20253 min read


A Dose of Poison Against Nostalgia
Jean Paul Gaultier enters SS26 under the creative direction of Duran Lantink—his first full ready-to-wear collection since being appointed permanent artistic director. The show is heralded not simply as a reset, but as a provocative reimagining of what JPG can—and should—mean today. Lantink makes clear that he is engaging with the legacy, yet determines not to simply mine the archives but to build from his own imaginative territory. The energy of SS26 is disruptive, electric:
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Nov 23, 20253 min read


Nostalgia Refined — Michele's Waning Spectacle
Alessandro Michele's Valentino SS26 arrives as what feels like a turning point — an exercise in containing exuberance, editing excess, and refocusing on wearability without losing identity. After seasons known for lush maximalism, ornate embellishment, and archival abundance, this collection leans into prim 1970s silhouettes with bows, ruching, and velvet skirts, while still allowing signature Valentino theatricality to flicker in select moments rather than dominate. Under st
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Nov 23, 20253 min read


Flou & Pragmatism in Light
At its core, Akris SS26 leans into what Albert Kriemler calls "Flou and Pragmatism"—a design philosophy that marries delicate fluidity with functional structure. The show is not about flamboyance, but about refinement, restraint, elegance of line, and craft. It offers both dreamlike softness and quiet readiness. The venue and atmosphere reinforce this duality: light plays across fabric layers, shadows accent tops, trenches, coats; architectural influences like soft tailoring
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Nov 23, 20252 min read


Between Structure & Flux
Niccolò Pasqualetti's Spring/Summer 2026 collection arrives as an exploration of boundaries: between menswear and womenswear, between workwear and ornament, between structure and looseness. Shown outdoors at Pitti Uomo in Florence, in the heat and architecture of the Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, the collection feels like an argument for garments that live through movement— breathing, shifting, resisting static expectations. Pasqualetti's approach isn't about glamor for glamor'
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Nov 23, 20253 min read


Return & Reset
Stepping into truly big shoes—those left by Phoebe Philo's intellectual minimalism and Hedi Slimane's razor-edged rock attitude—Michael Rider's SS26 at Celine feels like both a homecoming and a declaration of intent. After his stints at Ralph Lauren and earlier years with Philo and Balenciaga, Rider returns not just to a familiar atelier in rue Vivienne, but to a brand's heart. And what he brings back is clarity: clothing that lives, that lasts, that holds memory while still
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Nov 23, 20253 min read


The Locker Room as Stage
Lacoste's Spring/Summer 2026 show unfolds not on a traditional runway but in the symbolic space of a locker room—“The Locker Room”—a setting that sets the tone for a collection that oscillates between vigor and ease, sport and recovery. The venue (Lycée Carnot, ornate and academic) becomes more than a backdrop-it echoes the formative years of René Lacoste, the intensity of competition, and the quiet moment when the game is done. Designers often lean into heritage; Kolotouros
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Nov 23, 20253 min read


Crazy Secretary
The Spring/Summer 2026 collection from Véronique Leroy arrives at the heart of Paris Fashion Week as a refined meditation on structure, texture, and quiet confidence. Rather than pivoting wildly from previous seasons, Leroy continues to evolve her design language—one rooted in sculptural precision and architectural tailoring—but introduces fresh materials and a subtle shift in mood that mark this as a moment of considered progression. Leroy's signature silhouette remains unmi
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Nov 23, 20251 min read


Quiet Precision & Relational Elegance
In her Spring/Summer 2026 offering at Paris Fashion Week, Margaret Howell remains true to her enduring philosophy of quiet utility and considered ease—but here with a subtle recalibration of proportions that injects fresh energy into her rigorous restraint. According to reviews, the collection revisits key archive gestures while re-thinking how they live now: relaxed tailoring, soft outerwear, and lightweight separates defined in muted seasonal tones. Howell's SS26 is less ab
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Nov 23, 20252 min read


Romantic Tension & Slavic Bloom
Magda Butrym's Spring/Summer 2026 arrives with a quietly confident voice, one that feels more mature, more deliberate, and still true to her signature of romance, Slavic craft, and contrast. The show doesn't try to overwhelm—it seeks to balance softness and structure, nostalgia and present-day wearability. After years of refining, this season feels like the designer stepping more fully into the idea of "daily statement wear" without giving up the poetry. Her work has long dan
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Nov 23, 20253 min read


"The Heartbeat"
Pierpaolo Piccioli's debut collection for Balenciaga, titled "The Heartbeat,” strikes like a careful reset. After years of extremes, spectacle, and controversy, this show feels less about performance and more about presence. It signals a shift: audacious in parts, but grounded; reference-rich, yet offering breathing room. It isn't about forgetting the past—it's about choosing what to carry forward. Piccioli's Balenciaga revisits some of the maison's most iconic shapes—Cristób
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Nov 23, 20252 min read


Poetic Grunge & Refined Shadow
Under Stefano Gallici, Ann Demeulemeester's SS26 collection deepens that subtle tension between raw revolt and sculpted elegance. What the house delivers this season is mood: layered and melancholic, yet resilient; silhouettes that speak of both anonymity and distinction. This is not fashion reduced to spectacle, but fashion as emotional architecture - clothes that guard, reveal, resist. Gallici refines Ann Demeulemeester's heritage by letting structure emerge not through per
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Nov 23, 20253 min read


Deconstruction as Ceremony
Rei Kawakubo opens SS26 under the banner "Not Suits, But Suits", a paradox that sums up the mood: challenging tradition while invoking it. The show feels ritualistic, summoned by an urgent need for transformation in a troubled world. Kareem phrases around "needing someone powerful like a shaman" to lead us toward peace, love, fraternity punctuate what otherwise might become pure visual spectacle. The collection isn't about rejecting suit tailoring—it’s about rethinking what a
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Nov 23, 20253 min read


Flourish & Framework
Florentina Leitner's SS26 collection feels like a celebration of the "flourishing self" — one where fantasy dances with precision, where floral motifs and playful imagination are underpinned by exact tailoring and sustainable practice. The designer, educated at the Royal Academy of Antwerp and with a background at Dries Van Noten, has built a signature that balances romance and structure, and this season it seems she leans into both with renewed confidence. The theme this sea
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Nov 22, 20253 min read


Flora, Finesse & the Architecture of Elegance
Elie Saab's SS26 collection blossoms like a Renaissance garden reimagined under couture lights. At the show staged in Paris, the designer turns classic opulence into expressions of both romance and structure—flower-worked embroidery, sweeping silhouettes, and elegant, va-va-voom evening moments anchored by tailoring and silhouette. The atmosphere is dreamy yet precise, a tension between spectacle and meticulous craftsmanship. This season, Saab revives his signature hallmarks—
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Nov 22, 20252 min read


Heritage as Gift
Laduma Ngxokolo's MaXhosa Africa enters Spring/Summer 2026 with Izipho Zabadala — "Gifts for the Ancestors" — a collection that feels both an offering and a conversation. In an era where many brands grapple with identity, authenticity, and cultural resonance, MaXhosa stakes its claim with clarity: its roots in Xhosa beadwork, its mastery of knit, its heritage is not ornament but foundation. The brand, already the only Africa-based label on the official Paris Fashion Week sche
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Nov 22, 20253 min read


Beautiful Anarchy & Sunflower Elegy
Under the direction of Andreas Kronthaler, Vivienne Westwood's SS26 show at the Institut de France delivered a vivid tableau of beauty born from chaos. The show opened with an eerie scene: dying sunflowers, a solo cellist, and an upside-down umbrella suspended in stained-glass light—signaling a collection steeped in drama, decay, and defiant elegance. It felt like a requiem and a celebration at once. What followed was a balancing act between historical costume, punk spirit, a
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Nov 22, 20252 min read


Urban Ease & Leather Whispers
At Paris Fashion Week, Hermès under Véronique Nichanian offers a refined vision of "summer in the city" that isn't about spectacle, but about presence. The show, staged at Palais d’Éléna, plays with heat rather than hiding from it. Nichanian imagines the wardrobe of a man who moves purposefully through sun-baked streets; the essence is cooling sophistication, breathable craftsmanship, and elegance that doesn't shout. One of the standout features of this collection is how Herm
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Nov 22, 20252 min read


Oceanic Geometry & the Poetry of Submersion
Noir Kei Ninomiya's SS26 unveils as an immersion into memory, into liquid form, into the borderlands between skin and structure. The show begins in depths: a droning, sonorous tone, a recitation of marine life creatures, a poetic invocation of metamorphosis. It establishes that this is not simply fashion, but ritual, metaphor, and emotional architecture. The designer's stated intention—“something playful, happiness, childhood, first drawing"—reads less as whimsy and more as a
nyallure1
Nov 22, 20252 min read
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