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Milan Fashion Week


Paul Smith
For Fall/Winter 26/27, Paul Smith brought British sartorial charm laced with irreverent wit to Milan Fashion Week, presenting a menswear collection that felt both reflective of the brand’s rich history and refreshingly playful in its reinvention. In a salon-style show hosted at the brand’s Italian headquarters, Smith’s deeply personal curatorial voice — amplified by his longtime collaborator and new Head of Men’s Design, Sam Cotton — transformed the runway into a storytelling
nyallure1
Feb 12 min read


Lessico Familiare
Lessico Familiare arrived at Milan Fashion Week with a manifesto of intimate identity and wardrobe memory, presenting a Fall/Winter 26/27 menswear collection that felt like a quiet narrative stitched from the threads of everyday life and inner contemplation. Rather than dramatize the runway with overt spectacle, the brand — showing this season at Istituto Marangoni’s headquarters — chose to mediate the act of dressing as a personal ritual, one that bridges introspection with
nyallure1
Feb 12 min read


Pronounce
Pronounce’s Fall/Winter 26/27 menswear collection at Milan Fashion Week was one of the season’s most architecturally insightful and contemplatively refined statements — a collection that feels simultaneously rooted in heritage and propelled by future-facing design logic. The duo behind the brand, Yushan Li and Jun Zhou, harnessed the dramatic legacy of the Yingxian Wooden Pagoda in Shanxi Province as their guiding inspiration — an ancient wooden marvel built without nails who
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Feb 12 min read


Dolce & Gabbana
At Milan Fashion Week, Dolce & Gabbana returned with “The Portrait of Man” — a menswear collection that read as a gallery of identities rather than a monolithic uniform. Conceived as a sartorial manifesto celebrating individuality over conformity, the show unfolded as a series of lived-in archetypes: the thinker, the visionary, the Mediterranean sensualist, the structural rationalist, and the romantic idealist, each rendered through silhouette, fabric, and gesture. From the o
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Feb 12 min read


Setchu
At Milan Fashion Week, Setchu — the Japanese-born label helmed by Satoshi Kuwata — delivered one of the season’s most intellectually inventive and quietly profound menswear statements. Far from conventional runway storytelling, the collection felt like a meditation on ingenuity shaped by nature and survival, a philosophy distilled from Kuwata’s personal journeys and his deep engagement with vestimentary architecture. For FW26/27, Setchu’s inspiration came from the stark lands
nyallure1
Feb 12 min read


Dsquared2
Dsquared2 brought winter sport swagger and pop-cultural bravado to Milan Fashion Week with a Fall/Winter 26/27 menswear collection that felt like a celebration of speed, cold-weather fantasy, and unapologetic energy — all filtered through the brand’s signature Canadian-born irreverence and theatrical vernacular. From the very first look, designers Dean and Dan Caten turned the runway into a snow-sculpted alpine fantasy, a nod to the upcoming Winter Olympics that served as bot
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Jan 302 min read


Ralph Lauren
With his Fall/Winter 26/27 menswear presentation in Milan, Ralph Lauren orchestrated not just a runway show, but a lived-in anthology of American style — a vivid retelling of a sartorial language that’s both beloved and culturally elastic. Marking only the house’s third all-menswear runway this century, the brand returned with a symphony of narratives that wove Polo’s spirited prep roots with the stately precision of Purple Label tailorcraft. Right from the opening looks, the
nyallure1
Jan 302 min read


Zegna
For Fall/Winter 26/27, Zegna reaffirmed its place as a quiet visionary of masculine wardrobe craft, presenting a collection that feels like a lived wardrobe rather than a seasonal spectacle. Under the steady hand of Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori, the house grounded its Paris narrative in memory, inheritance, and sartorial longevity . This conceptual refrain speaks as much to emotional continuity as to fabric and form. The collection’s conceptual backbone was drawn from
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Jan 302 min read


The September to Remember
On a quiet evening in the courtyard of Milan's Pinacoteca di Brera, Giorgio Armani presented what would become his final ready-to-wear collection. Originally conceived as a celebration of 50 years, the show became a turning point: part retrospective, part farewell, fully Armani. There was a solemn air to the gathering—not a spectacle, but a deeply felt closeness. Among the faces in the front row: longtime models, collaborators, and luminaries. Some were tearful. The air felt
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Nov 9, 20253 min read


Les Enfants du Paradis Reimagined
Pierre-Louis Mascia's SS26—titled Les Enfants du Paradis-positions itself at the intersection of cinema, memory, and textile illusion. Drawing inspiration from Marcel Carné's 1945 film, Mascia crafts a runway as much about narrative as it is about clothes. In this collection, fabric and silhouette become actors, shadows and drapery speak, and prints map emotional terrain. Ease is elegant here: the garments feel soft, spacious, and alive with motion. Mascia avoids rigid displa
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Nov 8, 20252 min read


LACQUER & Layers of Memory
Phan Dang Hoang returns to Milan Fashion Week SS26 with LACQUER, a collection that feels like both homage and reinvention. Drawing inspiration from the lacquer paintings of Vietnamese master Nguyễn Gia Trí, Hoang embraces depth, layering, and the shimmering tension between surface and substance. In this season, the young designer stakes a claim: that tradition does not keep you static-it gives you roots from which to leap. Hoang speaks of LACQUER not just as material elegance
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Nov 8, 20253 min read


"Chaos" as Creation
In Chaos, Tokyo James leans into tension, fragmentation, and the beauty of imperfection. Ininye Tokyo James describes it bluntly: "It's not as neat as it could be. I'm embracing the rough edges." This collection doesn't hide its seams; it celebrates them. It is a vivid statement that fashion need not always polish itself into submission, especially when identity, history, and craft are in play. Tokyo James frames the runway as a stage for characters - some familiar, some unca
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Nov 8, 20253 min read


Craft & Color as Narrative
In his second Milan runway, Peruvian designer Jorge Luis Salinas stakes a clearer claim: that craft, identity, and color can carry narrative without overt spectacle. The SS26 collection reads like a bridge between heritage and modern dressing, between intimacy and statement, between local hands and global runways. It is at once luminous and rooted, expressive yet grounded. J.Salinas enlisted stylist Anna Dello Russo for the show, signaling seriousness about staging and narrat
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Nov 7, 20253 min read


Nature in Structure
For SS26, Calcaterra appears poised between earth and architecture. Daniele Calcaterra, known for his sculptural forms, organic textures, and natural palettes, doesn't depart radically here—instead, he deepens what he's been exploring: the tension between the natural world and modern form; between fluidity and structure; between subtle volume and intentional outline. Calcaterra has long been a designer who listens to nature. Earlier collections (notably SS25 "Connessioni") we
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Nov 7, 20253 min read


Fresh Voices & Formative Risk
Milano Moda Graduate SS26 returned as a vital echo of what Italian fashion keeps renewing itself through: young designers, raw ideas, craft experiments, and hopeful imperfection. In a season of established luxury houses recalibrating heritage, this student runway felt like the pulse - less polished, more curious, full of visible process and potential. The show begins in the familiar fashion school format - backstage energy, raw fabrics, first stitches — but under a sharper le
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Nov 7, 20253 min read


Loomed Light & Cultural Pulse
HUl's SS26 offering feels like a continuation of its mission to interweave cultural heritage, craft, and visual poetics — but with a renewed softness, a forward movement, and an increasing confidence. The show does not shout; instead, it weaves. It asks: how do you honor roots while stepping into new forms? How does fashion carry memory without becoming weight? HUl has built much of its voice around cross-cultural dialogue — particularly between Chinese heritage (textiles, te
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Nov 7, 20253 min read


Alétheia & Emergency Exits
Francesca Liberatore returns for SS26 with a show titled Alétheia — a Greek notion of revealing truth. In a season thick with spectacle, she stages a runway that feels urgent, political, and poetic all at once. Models descend via emergency escape staircases, a symbolic entrance that frames the collection as both protest and pause. The stage is set: fashion must respond, not just adorn. Liberatore begins not with a flourish but with an invocation. Headpieces carry the words Im
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Nov 6, 20252 min read


Living on the Edge of Motion
For SS26, MSGM leans hard into movement, energy, and the grit of lived experience. Titled I Feel the Rush, the men's collection is inspired by bike life: not just as sport, but as metaphor and mood. It's about speed, sun, sweat, terrain — and how clothes move with us, catch memories, take on wear. The show is a visceral one, less about polished perfection and more about the beauty in motion and imperfection. MSGM abandons a traditional runway in favor of an immersive transfor
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Nov 6, 20253 min read


Weaving Heritage Anew under Louise Trotter
With her first complete runway outing at Bottega Veneta for Spring/Summer 2026, Louise Trotter stakes a claim: the house's heritage-craft, leatherwork, Veneto artisanal roots- is not a relic, but a living material. The collection is a dialogue between the established language of Bottega (intrecciato weave, supple leathers, structured tailoring) and an openness to softness, sensual wearability, and sculpted fantasy. Trotter's voice is respectful of what came before, yet gently
nyallure1
Nov 6, 20253 min read


Poetic Heritage & Tailored Softness
Laura Biagiotti returns for Spring/Summer 2026 with what feels like an affirmation: that elegance need not shout, but it can still be deeply felt. In this season, the house seems to lean into its proportions of femininity, texture, and knit craftsmanship, favoring soft transitions over extremes, structure over flash, and narrative over novelty. The mood suggests softness with a backbone. Think of feminine forms softened by drape and knit, but held together by tailoring-light
nyallure1
Nov 6, 20252 min read
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