Return & Reset

Stepping into truly big shoes—those left by Phoebe Philo's intellectual minimalism and Hedi Slimane's razor-edged rock attitude—Michael Rider's SS26 at Celine feels like both a homecoming and a declaration of intent. After his stints at Ralph Lauren and earlier years with Philo and Balenciaga, Rider returns not just to a familiar atelier in rue Vivienne, but to a brand's heart. And what he brings back is clarity: clothing that lives, that lasts, that holds memory while still being of its moment.

Rider's silhouettes feel like a negotiation between past and present. Slim, cigarette trousers re-emerge, paying a nod to Slimane's lean forms, yet Rider tempers them with softness—oversized blazers, sloped shoulders, relaxed coats—signals of ease. Plays of proportion—versus rigid form—run through: barrel trousers, shorter shorts, elongated coats, contrasted with tight argyle knits or leggings. It's an oscillation: structured vs slouch, reserved vs provocative.

Even the tailoring feels human: coat lapels slightly oversized, layering that allows garments to breathe, jackets worn not strictly buttoned but partially open, scarves knotted casually. These are touches that soften formality.

Accessories play a starring role—not overtly, but in the details. Silk scarves tied in unexpected ways, charm necklaces layered, big embossed buckles, gold chains and pendants that swing across leather jackets and belts. These are reminders that Rider isn't merely reconstructing Celine's language—he’s remixing it.

There's playful material contrast: leather, knit, silk, denim, organza. Sheer shirting under leather vests, layered tops, mixed washes of denim. What might feel discordant in another collection becomes harmonious here because Rider uses these contrasts with restraint.

The color story is measured. Neutrals—camel, ivory, black, sand—set the stage. Pops of color—scarlet, grass-green, perhaps cherry hues—appear strategically to punctuate moments, not overwhelm. These accents seem to animate the quietness rather than disrupt it.

In mood, the show carries both calm and tension. It's nostalgic without being retro; elegant without being stiff; "preppy" in some details, but never timid. There's humility in Rider's design philosophy here: clothes not strictly for exhibition but for actual lived experience.

"Clothing that lives on... that becomes a part of the wearer's life," he says.

The balance Rider strikes between heritage and personal vision. He doesn't try to erase Philo or Slimane; he works with their legacies, then adds his own texture. Many looks feel like aspirational wardrobe staples—not pure runway clocks but pieces that could survive seasons: overcoats, scarves, knitwear, tailored trousers. The quiet statement via accessories and material contrast. The details feel thoughtful, which gives the collection emotional weight.

Some of the skinnier or tighter pieces may polarize—when riding too closely to Slimane's signature, comparisons are inevitable, and expectations high. In trying to honor the past while being modern, there is always risk of falling into pastiche or of not pushing far enough for those wanting very visible change. Tailoring, fittings, finishing; since many of the standout moments are small (scarf drapes, chain pendants, contrasts), how these translate off-runway will shape how lasting the impressions are.

Celine SS26 under Michael Rider feels less like a reset and more like a recalibration. It's a turning point where the brand says: we carry our past, but we also carry forward. The clothes are gentler in revolt, softer in authority, elegant in utility. Rider seems less interested in shock now than in resonance.

In an era when so much fashion seems temporary, this collection offers something more sustainable—not just in materials or cut, but in emotional tone. These are clothes you might want to wear for years, remember wearing, that become part of your story.

If the measure of new leadership is how well you can hold history while also defining tomorrow, Rider's Celine SS26 is off to a promising start.