A Dose of Poison Against Nostalgia

Jean Paul Gaultier enters SS26 under the creative direction of Duran Lantink—his first full ready-to-wear collection since being appointed permanent artistic director. The show is heralded not simply as a reset, but as a provocative reimagining of what JPG can—and should—mean today. Lantink makes clear that he is engaging with the legacy, yet determines not to simply mine the archives but to build from his own imaginative territory.

The energy of SS26 is disruptive, electric: loud in silhouette, strong in theatricality, playful in reference. The running refrain among critics is that Lantink has delivered something that both feels like Gaultier and feels like something new. The subtle pressure of expectation—which comes with the name—seems for once harnessed rather than weighed.

From early looks, one can see the house codes—cone bras, sailor stripes, tattoo prints—revisited. But Lantink does more than nostalgia: he bends and stretches those codes. Gender-challenging silhouettes emerge, with beachwear references that don't shy from exposure or eroticism, even as they layer or veil. Sporty materials, sheer overlays, unexpected cut-outs, and daring accessories all speak to a house willing to let its armor show, peel, and sometimes invert.

He plays with contrast: hard vs soft, concealment vs reveal, structure vs flow. Looks that feel like costumes one moment are reined in by tailoring, lining, or unexpected restraint in the next. The collection navigates between fantasy and wearability, pushing limits but occasionally retreating to a shirt, a pant, a cover-up. It's this push-pull that gives SS26 much of its drama.

The mood is part rebellion, part party, part fantasy. Lantink leans into erotica, into theatricality, but also into sensual craftsmanship. Many looks are bold in colour or print; others are quieter, letting texture and cut carry the emotional weight. The symbolism—sailors, stripes, tattoos—is not just decorative but relational, tying back to JPG's roots of provocation, identity, outsider welcome.

Materiality is key. The mix is rich: sheer fabrics that catch skin, denser or stretch materials that shape or compress, sporty fabrics or mesh juxtaposed with classic tailoring.

Beachwear elements get twisted-cut-outs, layering, flashes of skin that are both bold and intentional. There is a sense of "showing off" but also of framing, controlling, curating what is shown.

Lantink respects the heritage but resists defaulting to archive-recycling. The show feels more forward-looking than retrospective. There are moments of spectacle, yes—but also pieces that feel coherent, wearable, and even intimate. The best looks combine both. The breaking down of men's/women's codes—sheers, cut-outs, exposure—is done with confidence rather than shock for shock's sake.

The performance-spectacle side might overshadow subtler craftsmanship for some viewers; when shows lean dramatic, the quieter moments can fade. Some looks may be stunning on runway, editorial, or red carpet—but translate less well into daily wardrobes. The house name carries weight and history; some might expect more literal callbacks or more familiar landmark icons, and the absence of these might be read by some as omission or risk.

Jean Paul Gaultier SS26 under Duran Lantink is a bold, needed moment. It feels like someone standing in JPG's mirror and saying: yes, we remember; but we also can ripple, distort, and reinvent. The collection doesn't settle for nostalgia; it offers tension, but also delight. It is not the loudest show of the season—but it may be one of the most alive.

For a fashion house at a crossroads, this feels like a turn taken with clarity, with risk, and with the promise that the future might shock—but also enchant.