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Paris Fashion Week


Ten Years Young, Weightless & Aglow
For her Spring/Summer 2026 collection, Cecilie Bahnsen moves with a rare clarity: here is a designer who has spent a decade defining her aesthetic, and at this moment, she seems more free, more experimental—but still entirely herself. The mood is one of celebration, not resting on laurels; reflection, not repetition. Bahnsen's guiding idea this season was simple: "Instead of overanalyzing, just make it." Drawing inspiration from her son's curious gaze, from a recent spell of
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Nov 15, 20253 min read


Poiret Reimagined, Heartfully Forward
Alphonse Maitrepierre's SS26 collection "En plein cœur" opens as a conversation across time. Staged in the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, in dialogue with the exhibition "Paul Poiret, La mode est une fête," this season is at once a tribute and a rethinking. Maitrepierre borrows from Poiret's silhouettes—draped coats, kimono wraps, Zouave trousers—but filters them through his own sensibilities: precision, playful subversion, and ethical modernity. Poiret's influence is visible not
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Nov 15, 20253 min read


Gate C42 - Style in Transit
With her Spring/Summer 2026 collection, Marie Adam-Leenaerdt invites us through the airport terminal of self-expression - a runway that replicates passport control queues, oversized luggage, and boarding-pass anxiety turned fashion statement. Her theme of "identity in motion" comes alive in the way garments are functional yet whimsical, tailored yet travel-ready. Adam-Leenaerdt frames SS26 around the ritual of travel: joggers, oversized carry-alls, strollers, baggage claim, l
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Nov 15, 20253 min read


The Audition, the Mirror, the Movement
With SS26, Alain Paul stages more than a presentation; it becomes personal theatre. After winning the 2025 ANDAM Special Prize and revisiting memories of dance auditions, the designer frames this collection as an exploration of vulnerability, presence, and identity. The runway turns jury; the audience becomes both observer and judge. What unfolds is a wardrobe that is both performance and reflection. In Paulo's own words, SS26 shows "what happens behind the scenes, away from
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Nov 15, 20253 min read


Quiet Resonance, Sustainable Luxury
In its Spring/Summer 2026 collection presented at Paris Fashion Week, ICICLE reaffirms its identity as a pioneer of quiet, intelligent luxury— one born at the intersection of Eastern thought and Western craft. Drawing on its Shanghai roots and Paris design studio, the brand once again channels a serene dialogue between nature, material, and form. The colour story for SS26 was unexpectedly vibrant for a brand rooted in restraint. Whilst summer neutrals remained the base, pops
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Nov 15, 20252 min read


"Come Together" - Couture with Conscience
Stella McCartney opens SS26 under a banner of unity. Her latest collection, staged at the Centre Pompidou, carries a manifesto rather than just a runway show. The title "Come Together”—borrowed from the Beatles classic—is not only a nod to her roots, it's a call to arms: to people, planet, and the possibility that luxury can coexist with ethics. To open with Helen Mirren reciting those lyrics is to set a tone—solemn, celebratory, purposeful. McCartney's longstanding ban on fu
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Nov 14, 20253 min read


Sun, Skin & Futurism in Tension
Courrèges' Spring/Summer 2026 collection, titled "Blinded by the Sun", feels like both a warning and an invitation. Under Nicolas Di Felice, the brand takes its space-age roots and subjects them to the heat of now: the glare of climate, the urgency of exposure, and the interplay of form, function, and skin. This isn't nostalgia for the 1960s; it's futurism that burns, that feels sunlit, that glows with both allure and threat. One of the strongest threads in SS26 is how Courrè
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Nov 14, 20253 min read


Quiet Luxury, Precise Attitude
In a season awash with spectacle and over-the-top theatricality, RUOHAN’s Spring/Summer 2026 presentation at Paris Fashion Week quietly asserted a different kind of strength—one that whispers rather than shouts. Under the direction of founder-designer Ruohan Nie, the collection reaffirmed the brand's ethos of "effortless spirit" and refined luxury. From the very first look, RUOHAN showed a commitment to precision without severity. Jackets and coats were sharply cut, yet allow
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Nov 14, 20252 min read


Life, Movement, & the Visible Invisible
Kunihiko Morinaga's latest with Anrealage feels like an insistence that clothing can live. It's not enough for garments to hang, to be seen—they must breathe, shift, and carry traces of the lives that pass through and around them. SS26 pulses with this idea: that fashion can be more than a static image, more than an ornament—it can be a creature, a witness, a collaborator. In Morinaga's words, the aim was "to give life into the clothing... like the clothes are a creature, mov
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Nov 14, 20253 min read


Provocation Refined, Confidence Amplified
When Vincent Garnier Pressiat presented his Spring/Summer 2026 collection - titled Requiem - at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026, he demonstrated a designer in transition: one who retains the seductive undercurrent of his past while building toward a broader, more wearable future. Right from the start, there was a noticeable shift in tone. Pressiat's signature theatrical flair -those bold silhouettes, shimmering leathers, and moody undertones—remains intact, yet here it
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Nov 14, 20252 min read


Surf + Print + Nuanced Optimism
In SS26, Dries Van Noten under Julian Klausner offers something of a buoyant exhale. The collection is rooted in "ease and optimism," inspired by surf culture and the sunlit edges of seaside living. It's a Dries house voice heard in new registers - lighter, more playful, yet still deeply anchored in the brand's hallmark attention to texture, pattern, and layering. The runway builds gently: starting with muted tones — whites, grays, soft beiges — then allowing color to rise li
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Nov 13, 20253 min read


Heritage in Motion, Elegance Reimagined
Peter Copping steps into his second season at Lanvin with an earnest reverence for the house's past, but SS26 is not about repeating history—it’s about reshaping it. From the moment the runway opened, there was an archival hush: the gown-robes of the 1920s, robe de style silhouettes, dusty blues that feel stained with memory, and ribbon work that suggests both restraint and escape. Yet beneath this homage pulses a modern heartbeat—a softness, a looseness, and moments of unexp
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Nov 13, 20253 min read


Beauty in the Un-normed
From the moment the lights dropped on this show, Matières Fécales made clear: this is not about conforming. Designers Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran built their SS26 collection around a resistance to judgment, an insistence that beauty need not be tidy, and that visibility—especially of what is typically hidden, stigmatized, othered—is itself radical. They opened with a paean to the outsider: the people who walk into rooms watched, whispered about, stared at—and
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Nov 13, 20253 min read


Intimate Luxury & the Poetry of Home
For Spring/Summer 2026, Nicolas Ghesquière reclaims a quieter territory at Louis Vuitton—one that privileges the private, the domestic, and the tactile over ostentation. Set inside the former royal apartments of the Louvre, the show's atmosphere felt like stepping into a lived-in memory: sunlight through windows, fabrics shifting with ease, clothes meant for presence rather than performance. This collection asks: what if the most powerful glamour is the ease of being dressed
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Nov 13, 20253 min read


Disruption in Play, Identity in the Rearview
Zomer's SS26 feels like a rumination on memory, expectation, and the unruly beauty of misplacement. The designer duo Danial Aitouganov and Imruh Asha have long flirted with the question: What happens when fashion resists prescription? This season, they lean even deeper into reversal, into turning garments inside out, upside down, permitting imperfections, misalignments, curveballs. It's a collection not of finishes made perfect, but of moments made alive. There's a quiet rebe
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Nov 12, 20253 min read


Craft as Conscience, Architecture as Attitude
Situationist, under Irakli Rusadze, has always been less about following trends and more about forging conversations. Their Spring/Summer 2026 feels like a testament to that approach — the collection doesn't plead for attention, but demands it through structure, material honesty, and subtle politics. If the house's roots (in Tbilisi, with atelier-made uniqueness, each piece signed by its seamstress) suggest anything, it's that authenticity is not optional for Situationist. Th
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Nov 12, 20253 min read


Memory, Craft & the Slow Gaze
With SS26, Ganni's Creative Director Ditte Reffstrup takes a purposeful step toward slowing things down. Instead of a full runway show, the collection was presented at the Bastille Design Center in Paris via wooden mannequins, floral installations, and a dreamy film playing in the background. The mood is nostalgic — a meditation on summers, memories, and the way time softens details. Reffstrup explains her intention as letting people see the actual product, to immerse in deta
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Nov 12, 20253 min read


Reverie of Form & Material Memory
Mame Kurogouchi's Spring/Summer 2026 collection feels like a contemplative meditation - an exploration of the fragile boundary between what is made and what becomes memory. Across her recent seasons, Kurogouchi has been deeply invested in form (katachi), in the poetic resonance of material, and the ways in which traditional crafts can be translated into wearable art. SS26 picks up these threads with familiarity, yet promises subtle evolutions. Her shows have consistently been
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Nov 12, 20253 min read


Sunlit Power & Quiet Provocation
With Saint Laurent's SS26, Anthony Vaccarello stages a return to something both aspirational and intimate—less the thunderous roar, more a knowing whisper. Gone are some of the darker theatrics; in their place, a sense of sunlit power, framed through archival references, bold cuts, and unexpected color. The collection isn't about maximal spectacle—it’s about shaping attitude through refinement and contrast. One of the collection's most striking moves is its embrace of contras
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Nov 12, 20253 min read


Reckoning with Good Taste & the Wild Edge
Vaquera's latest runway leans into provocation, not for shock alone, but as critique. Their SS26 collection, per the designer notes, is built around the question of "good taste" vs "bad taste"—a dichotomy that they dismantle, reshape, and indulge in. The brand, freshly Paris-based, seems to view the city's reputation as arbiter of style as both backdrop and challenge. They don't reject tradition fully-they twist it, invert it, and in so doing ask what is hidden behind fashion
nyallure1
Nov 12, 20253 min read
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