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Paris Fashion Week


Couture DNA in Everyday Drag
At its Centre Pompidou show, Schiaparelli SS26 makes a confident claim: that ready-to-wear need not surrender the audacity of couture. Daniel Roseberry seems to have doubled down on the house's surrealist heritage—not as nostalgia, but as a superpower. In his own words, what once felt like a limitation ("that ready-to-wear looked too much like couture") has now become a strength—because clients are buying into fantasy, texture, and surprising craftsmanship in everyday pieces.
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Nov 18, 20253 min read


Motion, Minimalism & the Poetry of Transformation
For SS26, Gauchere trades the traditional runway for an intimate installment: a presentation in the brand's Haussmannian salon near the Tuileries, with dancers (choreographed by Benjamin Millepied) moving through fifteen looks that explore transformation, contrast, and what it means for clothes to evolve with the wearer. What Statz crafts is less spectacle and more a calm gestural investigation of how clothes breathe, shift, adapt. The overarching theme is transformation: opp
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Nov 18, 20253 min read


"Temple": Tenacity in Water & Steel
Rick Owens' SS26 womenswear collection, titled Temple, feels less like a runway under lights and more like a ritual under stones—weighty, uncompromising, yet drenched in its own mythology. Set at the Palais de Tokyo, the show effectively served as a living complement to his "Temple of Love" retrospective at the Palais Galliera. In this season, Owens confronts vulnerability, spectacle, strength, and memory—all at once. From the moment the models descended metal stairs and wade
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Nov 17, 20253 min read


Mark Thomas's Quiet Rebirth
Spring/Summer 2026 marks a turning point for Carven: this is Mark Thomas's first major moment as Creative Director (after Louise Trotter's exit). Rather than reinventing the wheel, he leans into the brand's heritage—its Parisian ease, its appreciation for wearable elegance—and infuses it with a softer sensuality, tempered restraint, and an eye toward what summer in the city really feels like. Thomas frames this as a "second chapter" of the Trotter era, carrying forward Carven
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Nov 17, 20253 min read


Luxury Nihilism & Refined Rebellion
Henri Alexander Levy's Enfants Riches Déprimés (ERD) returns SS26 with its familiar dance between decay and decadence, and this season the tension feels more personal, more drawn in. The label's trademark "rich kid malaise" is still there—opulence, edge, disheveled perfection—but sharpened: sharper tailoring, more contrast, more questioning in how identity and privilege are worn. The show isn't about loud spectacle; it's about mood, posture, and the weight of what is both giv
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Nov 17, 20253 min read


Soft Focus, Quiet Strength
In his Spring/Summer 2026 collection for Paris Fashion Week, Christian Wijnants delivers a vision both refined and quietly charged— an elegant interplay of ease and structure, anchored by deep regard for craft and a fresh conceptual muse. According to one review, the collection "draws on the quiet intimacy of Malian photographer Seydou Keita's portraits," a touchstone that surfaces in the garments' alternating lean into gentleness and precision. Wijnants grounds the collectio
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Nov 17, 20252 min read


Surf, Shine & the Suspended Moment Before Change
Rabanne SS26, under Julien Dossena, opens like a sun-lit breathing space: pastels, nostalgia, sparkle, and seaside references all set the mood. Yet beneath that breeze of glamour, there's an undercurrent of tension—between leisure and labor, between the ideal of summer and what it costs, between lightness and edge. Dossena seems aware of world complications but leans into the joy of what fashion can provide: an escape, a bit of color, a bit of theatricality. There's a strong.
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Nov 17, 20253 min read


Quiet Precision & Intentional Tailoring
Nehera's Spring/Summer 2026 collection arrives as a reaffirmation of the house's legacy: Slovak roots, a long history of tailoring, and a craft-driven view of what luxury can be when stripped of excess. There is no screaming spectacle here; instead, Nehera moves with calm confidence. This season feels like architecture in motion — precise cuts, measured silhouettes, and pieces that breathe rather than shout. Over recent seasons, Nehera under Ladislav Zdút has been building a
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Nov 17, 20253 min read


Sweet Edge & Subversive Softness
With his official debut on the Paris runway, Abraham Ortuño Pérez presents Abra SS26 (Women’swear) as both a tribute and a redefinition. Having built acclaim in the footwear and accessories world (notably for JW Anderson, Loewe, Jacquemus), Ortuño Pérez now brings his distinct aesthetic—part sweet, part spiky, part nostalgic—to full dressing. The collection feels like revisiting childhood memories— pastel bows, ballet references, tulle— but through a lens sharpened by punk at
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Nov 16, 20253 min read


Heritage Sculpted with Precision
In his first full runway outing for Mugler, Miguel Castro Freitas anchors the SS26 collection in a confrontation of legacy and reinvention. Presented in a brutalist underground car park in Paris's 11e arrondissement, the venue itself sets the tone: raw, somewhat unforgiving, yet richly textured. It's the perfect backdrop for a collection that trades spectacle for sculpted detail. The mood isn't loud — it's exact. Freitas leans into what people associate with Mugler — the hour
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Nov 16, 20253 min read


Quietness Reinvented
The Rowan twins—Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen—have long championed a kind of luxury that whispers rather than shouts. For Spring 2026, they take that ethos and subtly push it off the pedestal, adding volume, texture, and nuance to a brand that has often been synonymous with restraint. In a season where maximalism roars, The Row seems content (or confident enough) to let its clothes breathe in silence, yet with an undercurrent of strength. True to The Row's secretive mode, this p
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Nov 16, 20253 min read


Veils, Virtues, and Strength in Softness
Presented in the cavernous, age-worn hall of the Musée des Arts et Métiers, Uma Wang's SS26 collection feels like a meditation on mystery and material. The designer's inspiration—Mannerist Renaissance sculpture and the "four virtues" sculptures in the Loggia di David at Palazzo Te in Mantua—set the tone. She was particularly struck by how veils in marble both hide and invoke presence, and that sense of the concealed became a central question: how to create clothing that is ai
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Nov 16, 20253 min read


From Armor to Ease - A Shift in Tongue & Texture
Olivier Rousteing marks a quiet turning point with Balmain SS26. Celebrating 80 years of the house, Rousteing doesn't lean into full retrospective grandeur—but there's a gentle recalibration. Gone (or dialed down) are some of the more extreme architectural armors; in their place come softer silhouettes, seaside motifs, textured materiality, and a boho-heartbeat that pulses beneath Balmain's signature bravado. It feels less about fighting through glamour, more about letting gl
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Nov 16, 20253 min read


Sensuality Reinvented, Legacy in Flux
At SS26, Tom Ford isn't just leaning into its reputation for seduction—it’s subverting it. Under Haider Ackermann, the collection reads as both homage and evolution: the glamour is still there, but edged with fragility and mood. This show isn't about shock; it's about seduction as atmosphere, nuance, and the subtle reveal. There's a sense that Ford's legacy (the tight tailoring, the provocative silhouettes) is being reinterpreted—not repeated. Ackermann's Tom Ford SS26 builds
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Nov 16, 20253 min read


Cigar-Lounge Subversion & Androgynous Energy
Acne Studios' Spring/Summer 2026 collection, under Jonny Johansson, takes place in a space transformed into a moody cigar salon inside the vaulted halls of Collège des Bernardins. This setting is more than aesthetic; it sets the mood for a show concerned with dualities—masculine vs feminine, rough vs tender, restraint vs revelation. The collaboration with artist Pacifico Silano (known for emotive, archival, queer-visual work) in the backdrop and graphic elements reinforces th
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Nov 16, 20253 min read


Tarot, Textiles & the Ritual of Refinement
Gabriela Hearst arrives at Spring/Summer 2026 with a confident spell. Her collection— drawn from the symbolism of the major arcana—feels less like a trend statement than a spiritual map: each look is an incantation, each fabric a gesture. She tosses cards, channels the Empress and the Hanged Man, and invites us into a terrain where craft is magic, material is meaning, and restraint becomes power. In a fashion world that often demands spectacle, Hearst's offering is subtle but
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Nov 15, 20253 min read


'Reverie': Subverted Rules & Dreamed Realities
In naming her spring collection "Reverie," Caroline Hu leans into the realm of dreams and optical trickery, reworking familiar forms with delightfully unexpected twists. Reverie SS26 is an exploration of how "invisible rules" shape our wardrobes—and how gently breaking them can feel like breathing. Hu plays with the idea that the everyday garment isn't neutral but full of assumptions, and in doing so, she refracts the classic through a kaleidoscope of humor, craftsmanship, an
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Nov 15, 20253 min read


"(DIS) CONNECTED" — Identity, Vulnerability & Visible Truth
Lilia Litkovska's SS26 titled "(DIS) CONNECTED" stands as a powerful meditation on what it means to belong—and to feel apart. In a time when connections are at once hyper-digital and deeply fragmented, Litkovska pushes us to consider the tension between visibility and invisibility, silence and voice. The collection feels personal, political, raw, and refined all at once. Drawing from art brut, materials like camouflage mesh (traditionally used for concealment in war) are rein
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Nov 15, 20252 min read


A New Chapter, Steeped in Heritage & High Drama
Jonathan Anderson's first womenswear collection for Dior feels like holding your breath—it carries the weight of expectation, the excitement of possibility, and ends up walking a tightrope between paying tribute and pushing forward. Anderson doesn't try to erase the Maison's past; instead, he reworks it, distorts it, teases it apart, then rearranges it so familiar pieces catch us by surprise. From the opening bell-shaped crinoline dress to the shrunk Bar jacket, SS26 is both
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Nov 15, 20252 min read


For the Love of House - Rhythm, Glamour &Community
Charaf Tajer returns for SS26 under the banner "For the Love of House," staging Casablanca's runway in the American Cathedral with reverence, spectacle, and joy. The show is less an act of display than a celebration—a gospel choir, a live DJ set (Little Louie Vega), and a mirrored backdrop that reflects not only light but identity, rhythm, and communal energy. It's clear from the outset that this collection is about more than clothes; it's about the dance floor, the undergrou
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Nov 15, 20253 min read
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