Undone Beauty & Scandinavian Order

For Spring 2026, Toteme (Elin Kling & Karl Lindman) leans hard into what they do best: minimalism infused with personal memory, sophistication with ease. This season's show, held in the Pool Room of the Four Seasons (Seagram's building), evokes nostalgia for "power lunches" and architectural clean lines, but tempered by softness, little imperfections, and what the designers call "undone beauty."

From the moment the models appeared—hair loosely tied back, bags unfastened, coats grabbed as if in a rush—Toteme signals that perfection isn't the point. Instead, it's about presence, about texture and detail, about how clothes live not just as art objects but as companions.

Toteme's signature clean Scandinavian silhouette is present: sharp tailoring, pared-down shapes, architectural restraint. But it doesn't feel cold. The softness is evident through raw edges, crinkled fabrics, open hems, and "lived-in" leather washes.These touches offset the potential austerity of minimalism. The collection juxtaposes smooth silks (flowing at the hems), airy knits, crisp matte fabrics against shiny ones, washed leathers, and even openwork lace. Toteme introduces "surface interest" not through loud prints but through subtle variance - matte vs shine, compact knits vs fluid drape. The choice of venue, the "undone" styling (hair not thoroughly dried, unfastened bags, and coats in motion), and the music (strings that move in rhythm with the heartbeat and breathing) all reinforce the theme. Nothing feels incidental; the show's pacing, styling, and staging support the narrative of elegant ease. While Toteme is high-end, many of the pieces feel accessible, featuring shirting, skirts over pants, raw-edge trims, and relaxed fits alongside more tailored options. For wearers who want something elevated but usable, there are strong entries. The decision to favor "shirt + skirt over shirt + pants" in some looks nods to freshness. The closing lace/openwork pieces, inspired by tablecloths in the designers' grandparents' summer houses, add a sweetness of memory and grounding. These parts of the collection feel less about trend and more about personal narrative.

Black and white dominate much of the line. While texture shifts and fabric contrasts help, there are moments where the palette feels very safe. For some buyers or viewers, a stronger accent color or contrast might have an elevated punch. Raw edges, crinkles, and open hems are nice, but Toteme perhaps plays it a bit safe in how much "undone" gets displayed. The tension between polish and rough could've been pushed further (e.g., more drape, more exaggerated asymmetry, more deconstructed tailoring). Lots of the silhouettes stay within Toteme's comfort zone: straight or softly draped skirts, structured tops, relaxed fits. More shape shifts — unexpected widths, volume changes, hem length extremes - might have given parts of the collection more visual drama.

Here are what I see as the most shoppable signals from Toteme SS26, plus ideas for how to translate into personal style:

1. "Undone Beauty" Pieces

• Garments with raw edges, hems not quite finished, open straps, or unfastened bags. Adds character. Try skirts or jackets with raw or subtly frayed edges.

2. Soft + Structured Pairings

• Pair fluid silks or openwork lace with more compact knits or structured jackets. The interplay of softness and structure creates visual interest without overwork.

3. Monochrome Textural Depth

• Black, white, and ivory tones can be made more exciting through texture: matte vs shine, lace vs knit vs leather.

Invest in pieces with neutral tones that feature interesting fabric details.

4. Relaxed Silhouette Essentials

• Items like shirt + skirt combinations; lightweight coats grabbed in a rush; skirts that move; shoes like flat slingback Mary Janes. Comfort meets polish.

5. Personal & Heritage Touches

• Toteme's use of personal inspiration (grandparent's tablecloth lace) suggests consumers will respond to pieces with story - lace openwork, heritage prints, or motifs grounded in personal memory.

6. Capsule Moments of Romance

• The show closes with lace/openwork pieces reminiscent of christening garments - very romantic. Buying one or two pieces like that (even dresses or tops with lace) can add moments of elevated femininity to your wardrobe.

Toteme SS26 is strong precisely because it doesn't try to scream. It whispers. The collection's strength lies in its layers of texture, narrative, and mood. It leans into minimalism with confidence, but also cares deeply about what minimalism can feel like when it's human — when it's undone, when it's lived in.

For those who appreciate elegance, restraint, and quiet luxury, this is a collection that rewards close attention. It's not about trend panic, but about building what lasts - aesthetically, materially, emotionally. Some moments may feel less dynamic for those seeking flashy statements, but the ones that land feel full-bodied and resonant.