Squares, Stillness & Solidarity

Svitlana Bevza's SS26 collection feels meditative, as geometry meets protest and quiet elegance. With Kazimir Malevich's abstract modernist work as its lodestar, the designer takes what might feel rigid — squares and lines — and softens them, humanizing them, letting them move with the wearer rather than dominate. The show venue (a sun-filled industrial space in West Chelsea) and the palette (stark contrasts of white and black with bursts of carrot red, navy, and buttery yellow) amplify that duality of austerity and warmth.

Bevza discussed starting with the square in her cuts — stable, reliable, yet also open to interpretation. She uses crepes, bamboo jerseys, and dense cottons, manipulating fabric in ways that honor rigidity while permitting fluidity: a zippered square top/skirt that works both ways; cuboid-panniered skirts; and fluid jerseys with very controlled drape. There's a sense of someone thinking through form, thoughtfulness, identity, place — significant given Bevza's displacement from Kyiv and her continuing connection to Ukraine, both politically and culturally.

Bevza's abstract figurism (inspired by Malevich) serves as a strong anchor. The influence is visible, coherent, and elegant. One doesn't feel the metaphor is tacked on; the shapes, fabrics, color story, and even the jewelry (wheat-sheaf motifs) carry meaning. The square top/skirt that zips both ways is a very clever design moment — a square volume placed on a body in a way that works. The fluid jersey dresses with fine control of fabric drape, and geometric collars or cuboid shapes illustrate Bevza pushing shapes without becoming gimmicky. The use of mostly monochrome (white, black) with the occasional bold carrot red, navy, butter yellow gives the collection high visual impact. The contrast helps the shapes read well; quieter looks feel restful, louder ones feel like moments.

Bevza isn't just creating beautiful shapes: there is a story of identity, of making, of continuity under duress (in the context of Ukraine / war), of connection to one's homeland. The wheat motif jewelry, the face-mask adaptation, and the determination to open a store in Kyiv — all of this lends the collection weight beyond style.

Some of the square/cuboid volumes are compelling. Still, when multiple substantial volumes are stacked in one look (e.g., oversized panels, pannier shapes, structured collars), there's a risk that those silhouettes will appear heavy or restrictive — the human form sometimes recedes under geometric forms. Because the square/volume theme is so central, sometimes fabric texture, pattern, or color is the only relief. Fewer flamboyant prints or organic shapes may lessen surprise. For a collection built on abstraction, greater asymmetry or more fluid deviations might heighten interest. Some looks are stunning in still images or on the runway, but the architecture of squares and rigid forms may limit their movement in everyday wear. The wearer's personality is meant to animate the fabric; however, in practical contexts (such as walking, sitting, or commuting), some pieces may feel less comfortable. The quieter looks are elegant, but in contrast to the high-impact ones, they sometimes feel too reserved. More mid-level drama - not quite a showstopper, but more than the basics - might help create a more dynamic runway arc.

Here are what I see as the strongest and most useful style signals from Bevza SS26, along with suggestions for what to look for (or how to adapt) in your wardrobe.

Zippered square top/skirt (reversible or dual-use square panels)

It bridges architectural form with versatility — wearable both as a top or skirt, flat volumes made wearable

How to style it

Pair with minimalist shoes; let accessories be simple; use contrast in color or texture to highlight the geometry

Fluid Jersey dress with controlled drape

The Way Bevza controls fluid fabric shows skill — elegant, comfortable, photo-worthy

How to style it

Wear solo; layer with a structured coat; drape jewelry; neutral sandals or boots

Geometric collared shirt + cuboid-pannier skirt combo

Strong silhouette statement; dramatic but wearable if balanced

How to style it

Pair with low or flat shows to let skirt volume be centered; the op can be tucked or left, depending on proportions

Wheat motif jewelry / symbolic pieces

Adds meaning; elevates minimal outfits; works in small doses but can make a statement

How to style it

Use as an accent (necklace, face mask, brooch); let clothing be simpler when using motifs, so they stand out

Bold color accent pieces (carrot red, butterfly yellow) among monochrome outfits

Helps break up black/white monotony; draws attention; gives energy

How to style it

Integrate via one piece — a coat, bag, or dress — with the rest of the look neutral; repeat the accent in accessories

Bevza SS26 is one of the more quietly powerful collections of the season. It's not about spectacle; it's about form, meaning, identity, discipline. The shapes are thoughtful, the narrative (both visually and contextually) is strong, and the emotional undertone (hope, defiance, rootedness) enhances the garments rather than overwhelming them.

For someone who values craftsmanship and intentional minimalism in architecture, this show delivers. It offers several pieces that are likely to endure, both visually and in terms of wear. If you prefer loud drama, you may find the understatement at the core limiting; however, the moments of color, the shape experiments, and the meaningful details more than compensate.