Lightness & Power

In Spring/Summer 2026, Max Mara doesn't just dress women-it arms them with elegance. Under Lan Griffiths, the brand offers a collection that responds to current tensions—both climatic and cultural—by blending softness with structure, restraint with flirtation. The runway becomes a negotiation between power dressing and poetic escape.

At first glance, there is a sense of breath: fabrics that flutter, shoulders that billow in organza, hips given volume through volutes of frothy material. Yet this lightness is never frivolous. It is counterbalanced by the seriousness of tailoring-trench coats, pencil skirts, sharp suits—pieces built for presence. Griffiths has spoken of "lightness and strength, capriciousness and playfulness," and you feel that tension in each silhouette.

The moodboard nods are compelling: Elizabeth II, New Romantic aesthetics, Rococo-whorls, volutes, Sèvres-inspired florals—but filtered through Max Mara's DNA of restraint. The Rococo doesn't dominate; it decorates.

Organza wings burst from shoulders, gauzy layers swirl at hips, and floral printed chiffons flutter in rah-rah-adjacent miniskirts. It's a revival, but one with Hollywood softness rather than baroque weight. Suits still form the backbone—slim pencil skirts, trousers with sharp lines, trench jackets reimagined. Some pieces deconstruct traditional tailoring (crop tops, midriff-revealing outfits with belts) to challenge what power dressing might mean in today's context. The contrast between the frothy (organza, ruffles) and the rigid (tailoring, belts, structure) is used not just for visual impact, but also to evoke tension—between decorum and display, between morphing softness and authoritative shape. Belts, narrow black elastic bands, exposed midriffs juxtaposed with high collars, structured jackets—even the frothy moments are held in by frame. The tension between exposure and containment is central to the narrative.

Some of the standout material choices include sheer organza, technical mesh, stretch jersey as used in pencil skirts, and layered floral organza overlays. These light textures are paired with heavier-duty pieces—blazers, longer coats, and structured trenches—that showcase the duality at play. Silhouettes are varied: some looks are sharply tailored and slim; others are voluminous and soft. Trench coats with dramatic Rococo flare, sweetheart necklines, pencil skirts with flouncy hips; miniskirts contrasted with structured jackets; deconstructed suits that still read crisp. The finale dresses—knitted, fitted, full-length with flounces, and another open-waisted, feathered in black silk petals—feel like summations, points where restraint and fantasy meet. Color palette: camel, black, neutrals dominate. Only rare splashes of print (rococo shells, florals) serve as punctuation rather than distraction. The choice of neutrals maintains a serious mood, even when whimsy appears.

The balance between power and romance is well handled. The show feels grounded even in its more decorative moments. Max Mara's identity is preserved-its strength in tailoring, its legacy in coats and suiting, its signature color story- all present and given moments to shine. There is an escape element, the poeticism of lace, ruffles, breathy layers. For many, this may offer solace or style uplift in difficult times.

Some of the more fantasy-laden pieces (great on the runway) might struggle in real-life wardrobe adoption, as exposed midriffs, voluminous organza, and heavily decorative ruffles may not fit everyone's daily context.

The Rococo references, while beautiful, risk feeling seasonal or thematic rather than timeless, unless grounded by the tailoring that Max Mara also demonstrates.

Belts, crop tops, and sheer fabrics may divide audiences—some will love the flirtation, while others may see it as a departure from the brand's more classic offerings.

Max Mara SS26 is ambitious in its duality. Lan Griffiths offers a collection that doesn't shy from fantasy or ornament, but ensures both are anchored in structure and presence. Lightness & Power could be its tagline: garments whisper and declare in the same breath.

In a moment where climate anxiety, global tension, and sartorial fatigue are present, this collection suggests a way forward: dress for strength, but allow room to breathe. Wear the coat that commands a room-but let it flow in the wind. Max Mara reminds us that elegance need not be restraint alone, but also a kind of joyful ease.