Gilded Echoes

In his latest collection, creative director Fausto Puglisi leans into Cavalli's most luminous codes—gold, sensual silhouettes, and opulent textures—and serves them not as relics, but as living, breathing statements. This SS26 outing is less about reinvention and more about reclamation: reclaiming glamour, reclaiming Cavalli's capacity for spectacle, and reclaiming sensuality in a time when many look to tone down.

The show begins with a confident flourish of metallic surfaces and rippling lamé, setting the stage for a series of moments both dramatic and intimate. Gold isn't just an accent here-it's the palette, the attitude. This is Cavalli under Puglisi at his most visceral: fabric catching light, skin cut-outs daring skin to shine, structure softened by fluid movement.

There is tension here between what was, what is, and what might yet be.

Puglisi draws inspiration explicitly from Elizabeth Taylor's portrayal in Cleopatra, immersed in pleated drapery, opulent adornment, and a powerful silhouette, as well as from Jane Birkin's free-spirited boho ease. The combination of regal drama and relaxed abandon gives the collection its signature swing: the kinds of gowns and forms that demand attention but also breathe a sense of possibility.

The Cleopatra benchmark gives legitimacy to the gold: not just a showy color, but a story of empire, of day becoming stage, of femininity as myth and costume. In contrast, the Birkin influences-low-waist bell bottoms, loose blouses, untamed edges-bring it down to earth, to the streets, to body in motion. These dual impulses—mythic versus lived —create the collection's dynamism.

The show hinges on gold's many moods. Some gowns shimmer like molten metal, and denim treated with gold lamé that catches light with each step. These fabrics aren't just visually appealing; their movement feels integral to the choreography. Puglisi does not shy away from revealing skin, opting for bodysuits, body-hugging cocktail dresses, and plunging necklines. It's Cavalli's signature, exposed but polished. Even in the dramatic gold dresses, cut-outs or sheer panels ground them in modern sensibility. Tiger stripes in sequin, silk velvet dévoré slip dresses, golden Chantilly lace slips, foil coats-there's a layering of texture that gives depth and contrast, so that what might be overwhelming feels multifaceted. The bell-bottoms, silky blouses, loose shapes among the shine bring softness. They feel like the collection's moments of respite, where one can breathe, move freely, live in the glam rather than be showcased by it.

Cavalli, under Puglisi, shows he still understands how to amplify desire without resorting to mere flash. Gold, lace, cut-outs-they don't feel gratuitous; they think like identity.

There's a strong coherence. Even the contrast between the regal and the boho feels intentional, not disjointed. The golden obsession here isn't just decorative: it sets rhythm. Wearability seems not entirely forsaken; denim with foil, relaxed blouses, and boho pants provide counterpoints to the gowns, giving the collection range and versatility.

The gold saturation and references to mythic glamour are vivid, but may risk tipping into excess for some. For those less inclined toward dramatic eveningwear, some pieces may feel more aspirational than attainable. While the Cleopatra and Birkin inspirations are evocative, there are moments when it feels like past Cavalli eras are re-echoed without a fresh enough twist. Some looks seem safe within the brand's past rather than charting new territory. In the current global climate—both literal and cultural—such unabashed glamour is bold, but also vulnerable: how many will see gold gowns first, and climate or simplicity concerns second?

Roberto Cavalli SS26 is a radiant testament to legacy and luxury. It reminds us that glamour need not fade-it can be re-wielded, reinterpreted, and given new breath. Puglisi crafts a collection that asks to be seen: in light, in gold, in skin and sheen, in movement. It is a collection of both spectacle and texture, of power and ease.

In a time when many brands tone down, Cavalli dares to shine. The show stands not just as an homage to past glories but as a statement that excess, when done with craft, conviction, and coherence, still has its place.