Foundations & Futures

Stepping into Dhruv Kapoor's SS26 presentation is like entering a liminal space where heritage meets tomorrow. For his debut womenswear slot in Milan under the theme "Foundations and Futures", Kapoor forges a dialogue between the roots of his design identity and the shifting expectations of fashion's next chapter.

The show is staged at Via Tortona, and from the moment the lights dim, a tension arises between expectation and evolution. Kapoor, who has been celebrated for his menswear and co-ed work, allows this collection to breathe with femininity, while retaining the crisp discipline of tailoring and structure that have defined his oeuvre.

Just as the title suggests, Kapoor leans into dualities—softness and structure, tradition and innovation, the body and its drapery. There is a sense of building on what came before (the foundations) while looking forward to new silhouettes, new materials, and new voices. Cultural references - whether in print, cut, or embellishment — are never literal revivals, but refracted through a modern lens. There are echoes, for instance, of textile craftsmanship, but applied to daring, confident shapes.

For Kapoor, whose reputation has grown mainly from menswear and co-ed pieces, SS26 womenswear is not a concession but an expansion. The collection is meant to broaden the narrative, not soften it.

Structurally sharp blazers and double-breasted jackets are counterbalanced by draped skirts, flowing layers, and asymmetric hems. The tailoring is confident, with strong shoulders, crisp lines, but softened by unexpected volumes and folds. Prints are used not simply as decoration, but as signals-moments of attention that punctuate more restrained or monochrome looks. Texture (in fabrics, in layering) amplifies these moments.

While Kapoor has in past seasons played with vibrancy, this time the color story feels more mature, balancing neutrals with jewel tones, saturation with restraint. The interplay of light and dark, along with muted hues and pops of color, effectively underscores the duality at the heart of the collection. Footwear, jewelry, and even the way garments are layered communicate a belief not just in what women wear, but also in how they move in it. Kapoor frames each look as part of a lifestyle, not just a moment.

The most significant success here is coherence. Kapoor's SS26 feels intentional. Every piece seems to understand its place in the story — there is no filler. Additionally, the women's tailoring in particular signals a designer coming fully into their own power in showcasing both genders. And the balance between experiment and wearability is rare: many runway pieces could translate into seasons beyond the show. Some of the more forward moments, such as extreme draping or asymmetrical layering, might risk being harder to commercialize broadly. It will be interesting to see how retailers and audiences respond to the parts of the collection that push away from immediately "easy" looks. Also, the menswear fans of Kapoor may miss echoes of those signature pieces, though that's by choice rather than oversight.

Dhruv Kapoor's SS26 is a defining moment. It is not just about entering womenswear more fully, but about proving that his vocabulary—his codes of craft, structure, embellishment, and color—can evolve without losing its identity. Foundations & Futures is more than a title; it's the strategy. Kapoor asks the audience to remember where he came from, and accept where he's going. In doing so, he doesn't simply add to Milan's SS26 narrative-he stakes a claim in it.