A Bright New Rhythm

Stepping into Jonathan Anderson's long shadow, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez opened their tenure at Loewe with spring colors, Spanish textures, and a confidence that felt both respectful of the house's roots and keen to steer it forward. The energy of SS26 pulses through bold primary hues, painterly inspiration, leather craftsmanship, and a mix of structure and ease that signals a new chapter.

What catches you first in this collection is the colour-royal blue, fiery red, vivid yellow, contrasted with crisp neutrals. These aren't just decorative; they anchor the narrative. The show's set itself featured a painting by Ellsworth Kelly, Yellow Panel with Red Curve, a visual preamble that both hints at abstraction and frames the spirit of the collection.

Silhouettes shift between structured leather jackets and fluid skirts, between bombers and sweeping dresses. Hemlines play: asymmetrical cuts, scarf-draped panels, high slits, and mini lengths appear, balanced out by more grounded trousers. The duo seems drawn to both restraint and revelation. There's also a pull towards "beachy" references—not cliché, but felt: towel-dresses, maxi striped pieces, light knits, legionnaire-style hats to shade from the sun.

Loewe has always worn its leather heritage openly, and in SS26 that legacy is reworked. Leather pieces—jackets, trims, mini dresses—are cut, skived, treated with subtle texture. Novel materials appear too: rubber-like stiffness in certain minis, softer knits in others. The craftsmanship comes through in juxtaposition: polished vs raw edges, overlays, cut-outs. The accessories played their part: glass clutches, "mussel"-decorated bucket bags, see-through shoes that layer over linings—all echoing a balance of novelty and utility.

One of the big successes of this show is how McCollough & Hernandez manage to feel both Loewe and not-Loewe in the sense of new bloom. There's a conscious nod to Spain—its color, its shores, its craftsmanship—in place of folklore. The "no-trouser" moments, the towel-dress riffs, the structural leathers—they signal a prepared tension between runway fantasy and real-life wearability.

The emotional arc moves from polished structure into loosened edges and back. Early pieces feel more constructed—jackets, sharp shoulders—and as the show unfolds, there's more sway, more drapery, more beach-like ease. It's a reminder: even at luxury scale, clothes are lived in.

The duo's ability to carry over Loewe's heritage (leather, craft, Spanish artisanal references) while stamping their own vision. The balance here is handled with poise. Injecting vivid colour—primary tones—in unexpected ways, making longtime Loewe more visible in daylight, more ready to catch eyes. The layering of ease and structure: some looks feel luxurious but usable; the show suggests clothes not just for image, but for movement, for daylight, for transition.

There were moments where the structure seemed cautious—leather is present but perhaps not pushed into extreme deformation or ornament as deeply as some may have expected. For a debut, this caution is understandable, but the promise will be in how bold the risk becomes moving forward. The reliance on primary blocks of colour is striking, but potentially limiting if over-relied upon. More nuanced tone shifts, texture contrasts, maybe printed motifs might expand the range. Some of the more dramatic or beach-referencing pieces (towel materials, hot-pants + jackets) may need careful styling for daily wear.

Loewe SS26 under Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez is a confident opening statement: one that leans into colour, heritage, and a sense of optimism. They respect what the house has been, but they seem eager for what it could be: more visible, more wearable, more alive in daylight and on the street—not just in galleries or editorials.

This debut is strong because it feels possible. The pieces make you imagine wearing them— not just admiring them. There's grace, texture, utility, and a spark. If Loewe's future is defined by boldness tempered by craftsmanship, this is a promising first step.