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In SS26, Dries Van Noten under Julian Klausner offers something of a buoyant exhale. The collection is rooted in "ease and optimism," inspired by surf culture and the sunlit edges of seaside living. It's a Dries house voice heard in new registers - lighter, more playful, yet still deeply anchored in the brand's hallmark attention to texture, pattern, and layering. The runway builds gently: starting with muted tones — whites, grays, soft beiges — then allowing color to rise li

Peter Copping steps into his second season at Lanvin with an earnest reverence for the house's past, but SS26 is not about repeating history—it’s about reshaping it. From the moment the runway opened, there was an archival hush: the gown-robes of the 1920s, robe de style silhouettes, dusty blues that feel stained with memory, and ribbon work that suggests both restraint and escape. Yet beneath this homage pulses a modern heartbeat—a softness, a looseness, and moments of unexp

From the moment the lights dropped on this show, Matières Fécales made clear: this is not about conforming. Designers Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran built their SS26 collection around a resistance to judgment, an insistence that beauty need not be tidy, and that visibility—especially of what is typically hidden, stigmatized, othered—is itself radical. They opened with a paean to the outsider: the people who walk into rooms watched, whispered about, stared at—and

For Spring/Summer 2026, Nicolas Ghesquière reclaims a quieter territory at Louis Vuitton—one that privileges the private, the domestic, and the tactile over ostentation. Set inside the former royal apartments of the Louvre, the show's atmosphere felt like stepping into a lived-in memory: sunlight through windows, fabrics shifting with ease, clothes meant for presence rather than performance. This collection asks: what if the most powerful glamour is the ease of being dressed

Zomer's SS26 feels like a rumination on memory, expectation, and the unruly beauty of misplacement. The designer duo Danial Aitouganov and Imruh Asha have long flirted with the question: What happens when fashion resists prescription? This season, they lean even deeper into reversal, into turning garments inside out, upside down, permitting imperfections, misalignments, curveballs. It's a collection not of finishes made perfect, but of moments made alive. There's a quiet rebe

Situationist, under Irakli Rusadze, has always been less about following trends and more about forging conversations. Their Spring/Summer 2026 feels like a testament to that approach — the collection doesn't plead for attention, but demands it through structure, material honesty, and subtle politics. If the house's roots (in Tbilisi, with atelier-made uniqueness, each piece signed by its seamstress) suggest anything, it's that authenticity is not optional for Situationist. Th

With SS26, Ganni's Creative Director Ditte Reffstrup takes a purposeful step toward slowing things down. Instead of a full runway show, the collection was presented at the Bastille Design Center in Paris via wooden mannequins, floral installations, and a dreamy film playing in the background. The mood is nostalgic — a meditation on summers, memories, and the way time softens details. Reffstrup explains her intention as letting people see the actual product, to immerse in deta

Mame Kurogouchi's Spring/Summer 2026 collection feels like a contemplative meditation - an exploration of the fragile boundary between what is made and what becomes memory. Across her recent seasons, Kurogouchi has been deeply invested in form (katachi), in the poetic resonance of material, and the ways in which traditional crafts can be translated into wearable art. SS26 picks up these threads with familiarity, yet promises subtle evolutions. Her shows have consistently been

With Saint Laurent's SS26, Anthony Vaccarello stages a return to something both aspirational and intimate—less the thunderous roar, more a knowing whisper. Gone are some of the darker theatrics; in their place, a sense of sunlit power, framed through archival references, bold cuts, and unexpected color. The collection isn't about maximal spectacle—it’s about shaping attitude through refinement and contrast. One of the collection's most striking moves is its embrace of contras

Vaquera's latest runway leans into provocation, not for shock alone, but as critique. Their SS26 collection, per the designer notes, is built around the question of "good taste" vs "bad taste"—a dichotomy that they dismantle, reshape, and indulge in. The brand, freshly Paris-based, seems to view the city's reputation as arbiter of style as both backdrop and challenge. They don't reject tradition fully-they twist it, invert it, and in so doing ask what is hidden behind fashion

Burc Akyol's SS26 collection strikes a balance between ethereal lightness and architectural intent. The show feels like a meditation on space and skin-space, where every cut, every layer, every translucency is calibrated to whisper rather than shout. There is freedom here—freedom in drape, in movement—but also rigor: the silhouettes are sharply thought out, the fabrications intentional. What ultimately makes this collection memorable is how Akyol pushes the boundary between g

What Vautrait continues to do well with SS26 is insist that tradition need not be a static reference point but a living, breathing medium. Under Yonathan Carmel, the maison recalls that craftsmanship and tailoring are not decorative afterthoughts but the very bones of authenticity. The collection this season feels less like an exercise in nostalgia and more like an interrogation of how what has been might guide what becomes. The idea is not to rehash, but to let what is alrea

Ellen Hodakova Larsson's SS26 feels like the next chapter in a story she's been telling: one of reclamation, poetic reuse, and the everyday elevated to myth. Her work has always been less about novelty for novelty's sake, more about excavating meaning from what's been abandoned, overlooked, or considered "finished." In SS26, the pulse seems to be on deepening that tension-between familiarity and estrangement, utility and ornament, the visible memory of material and its new li

Mossi's Spring/Summer 2026 offering feels like a continuation and maturation of a narrative the Maison has been building: one rooted in couture craftsmanship, expressive silhouettes, and ethical purpose. As Mossi Traore's brand identity suggests, there is an ongoing tension here between drama-sculptural drapes, voluminous shapes, and usability: clothing that speaks to identity, culture, and everyday elegance. In SS26, Mossi seems less inclined toward theatrical surprise than

From the first look onward, Julie Kegels' Spring/Summer 2026 runway felt like a quiet revelation — a collection that whispers rather than shouts, but lingers in memory. There is a refined restraint here, a measured choreography of fabric and form that reveals its voice through nuance. The overall impression: minimalism with emotional undercurrents. The collection doesn't rely on grand gestures or over-the-top spectacle; instead, Kegels probes the power of refinement, the sedu

From the moment the first model stepped into the spotlight, Weinsanto SS26 felt like a whispered manifesto— equal parts delicate flourish and architectural bravado. The collection balances soft sensuality and sharp corsetry, with each silhouette negotiating the tension between fluidity and strict form. As WWD puts it, "interspersed were great-fitting pants and handsome jackets flecked with floral embroideries; inventive swing coats with transparent inlays..." What makes this

On a quiet evening in the courtyard of Milan's Pinacoteca di Brera, Giorgio Armani presented what would become his final ready-to-wear collection. Originally conceived as a celebration of 50 years, the show became a turning point: part retrospective, part farewell, fully Armani. There was a solemn air to the gathering—not a spectacle, but a deeply felt closeness. Among the faces in the front row: longtime models, collaborators, and luminaries. Some were tearful. The air felt

Pierre-Louis Mascia's SS26—titled Les Enfants du Paradis-positions itself at the intersection of cinema, memory, and textile illusion. Drawing inspiration from Marcel Carné's 1945 film, Mascia crafts a runway as much about narrative as it is about clothes. In this collection, fabric and silhouette become actors, shadows and drapery speak, and prints map emotional terrain. Ease is elegant here: the garments feel soft, spacious, and alive with motion. Mascia avoids rigid displa

Phan Dang Hoang returns to Milan Fashion Week SS26 with LACQUER, a collection that feels like both homage and reinvention. Drawing inspiration from the lacquer paintings of Vietnamese master Nguyễn Gia Trí, Hoang embraces depth, layering, and the shimmering tension between surface and substance. In this season, the young designer stakes a claim: that tradition does not keep you static-it gives you roots from which to leap. Hoang speaks of LACQUER not just as material elegance

In Chaos, Tokyo James leans into tension, fragmentation, and the beauty of imperfection. Ininye Tokyo James describes it bluntly: "It's not as neat as it could be. I'm embracing the rough edges." This collection doesn't hide its seams; it celebrates them. It is a vivid statement that fashion need not always polish itself into submission, especially when identity, history, and craft are in play. Tokyo James frames the runway as a stage for characters - some familiar, some unca